In theory, I’m a big fan of tankless water heater technology. I even brought one back from Hong Kong in a large suitcase many years ago. It’s still cranking out the hot water in my processing facility. When it came time to replace my 20 year-old hand-me-down tank water heater in my home I thought, “Finally I can get a tankless water heater.” However, the technician in me insisted on research that ended up getting more involved than I had imagined. I went way beyond company literature or Consumer Reports and spoke with engineers at three different manufacturers. What I found is that a tankless is not always the best choice and it depends a great deal on your individual usage, climate, installation location, noise concerns, length of venting and energy source. (Please note the discussion below is limited to gas-fired units.)

Tank vs Tankless
Some of the first things to look at are cost, efficiency and climate.

  1. Cost. The cost of a tankless is about the same as a high-quality tank heater, ignoring installation. Gas tankless units run much hotter, often three times the BTU output of a tank unit and therefore require Category III stainless vent. It is very expensive. In my application, the vent would have cost as much as the tankless water heater. It can certainly be less in other applications with shorter runs. But it is a considerable cost even with short vent runs. Keep in mind if you are replacing a tank water heater, you will need to replace the entire venting system.
  2. Efficiency. Tank water heaters are getting more efficient. If you buy a 10- or 12-year warranty tank heater, they have more insulation and more efficient combustion chambers (in some cases) and often two diode rods (more on those later). In some cases the energy savings can be as low as 8% with a tankless. So compared to efficient tank units you may only save about $50 or less in energy costs per year. That’s a good thing for sure. However, it may cost you more when you calculate the cost of venting and higher maintenance on a tankless unit. In my case, it would have taken close to 30 years to pay for the added cost of the tankless in energy savings, when considering my installation and venting costs.
  3. Climate. One engineer working for a popular brand of both tankless and tank heaters attempted to talk me out of a tankless due to my northern Michigan location. In the end that info played a role in my decision. If you live in a cold climate and power failures are an issue in your area, keep in mind that the heat exchangers can crack in a matter of hours due to frigid air dropping in the vent on short vent installations. That’s a very expensive repair. This is not an issue with tank water heaters, but I’ll spare you the physics lecture. This was an issue for me because we often travel for four weeks at a time in the winter and we often leave our home available to friends. I love ’em, but I can’t entrust them to properly drain the plumbing lines.

In the end, I went with a tank heater in my application. It was the most cost-effective and greenest in my opinion. Had just a few of my factors been different, I could have easily gone with a tankless. Whatever you decide, don’t let anyone tell you that either is better unless they know all the particulars of your application. And remember, in the end the greenest and most cost-effective thing you can often do is take better care of what you have. If you have a tank heater, most people don’t know that 90% of failures are from the tank rotting out and leaking. That can easily be prevented by changing your anode rod every 2-5 years. The anode rod hangs down inside the water tank and is coated with a material that dissolves over time and prevents the water from rotting out the tank (Another reason why people say “Don’t drink or cook with water from the hot tap). It can be removed and inspected easily by a homeowner with a good wrench. You can get 20 plus years out of tank if you replace them, much less if you don’t. I bought a spare anode rod and hung it next to the water heater with tag saying “Install in year 2010.”

With a tankless, follow maintenance procedures and keep in mind, depending on the mineral content and quality of your water, you may need to flush your unit’s heat exchanger annually. It is also advised to install a sediment filter on your incoming water line.

I hope this helps. Because I built, wired and plumbed my own home I may have a bit above average understanding of these issues, but I’m no expert by any means. So do the research on your application and consult plumbers with experience in both applications.

Please click on “Comment” below and let me know if this was helpful.

Addendum February 2, 2011

Please note that I posted this article in 2007. Since that time many companies have come out with tankless water heaters that have PVC venting. That changes the cost consideration with regards to venting. I’m still an owner of both tank and tankless water heaters (home and business) and while I’m happy with both, I remain convinced that neither is supperior in all applications. So do your research and choose what works best for you.



  • jody Posted November 8, 2007 8:23 am

    Hi Tim,
    This is really useful information. Thanks for sharing it. I think it also illustrates how many issues a business owner must consider as we continue down the path to creating greener business models. From water tanks to delivery vehicles to light bulbs, this type of information sharing is vital to all of us who are relentless in our pursuit of the most environmentally-friendly, economical solutions to our business needs. Gracias mi amigo!

  • Manfred Heidinger Posted September 22, 2008 10:59 pm

    Thank you, Tim, for this information
    it just reached us in the nick of time since we needed to replace an existing, old Water Heater. Your alert about stainless steel venting, its cost, plus cold climate challenges made it easy for my wife and myself to decide what we finally obtained…a new updated Tank Water Heater.
    Manfred Heidinger

  • Lisa Krzywonos Posted October 7, 2008 10:32 am

    Tim, Thanks for this very useful information. Just last night our hot water heater tank started leaking and I turned to the internet for some insight on hot water heaters. Given our cold Chicago winters and other cost and installation concerns, we too will be going with an updated, energy efficient tank heater.

  • Sue Posted November 3, 2008 11:02 am

    Thank you so much for writing such an informative article that explained JUST what I was looking for …both sides of the issue. I really wanted to go tankless to but I live outside of Chicago in a older trilevel and would also have to replace all my venting which isn’t going to happen.
    Thank you so much for making a difficult decision very easy in the end!
    Thanks again for taking the time!

  • Sue Posted November 3, 2008 12:59 pm

    Hi Sue:
    I’m glad the water heater article was helpful. I usually write about food related issues, but after all the research and homework I did, it just didn’t make sense not to pass it on. Blogs can be wonderful.

  • robert Posted January 1, 2009 3:42 am

    One thing not covered in the conversation is the fact that tankless water heaters only produce 4 gallons a minute to a 75 degree rise. This means that when water comes into the heater at 50 degrees f it will heat 4 gallons a minute to 125 degrees. A good moen tub valve will use 7 to 8 gpm (gallons per minute) and if you have a soaker or whirlpool tub, the valve can pass as much as 11 gpm. As a journeyman plumber I have installed 11 tankless water heaters this last year and have removed 6 of them for tank type.

  • robert Posted January 1, 2009 8:29 am

    Anyone using a on-demand water heater would almost certainly need to switch to low flow shower heads and be patient when filling a tub. I already have low flow heads and don’t have a tub, so that slipped my mind. You won’t get the same amount of flow compared you a tank water heater.

  • robert Posted January 1, 2009 8:29 am

    Anyone using a on-demand water heater would almost certainly need to switch to low flow shower heads and be patient when filling a tub. I already have low flow heads and don’t have a tub, so that slipped my mind. You won’t get the same amount of flow compared your a tank water heater.

  • Rose Posted January 2, 2009 9:54 am

    We are getting ready to build a house. We had always heard that tankless water heaters were better. I started doing the research to make sure we were not making a mistake I realized for our application with our water source being a well, that the maintenance from scale build up would make it not as cost effective. Thank you for the great info it is much appreciated.
    Thank you, Rose

  • Evan Posted January 6, 2009 10:41 pm

    I have found a use for these, we fill a 75 gallon was tank with 140 degree water ever 2 to 4 hrs for cleaning, and these models work great for that, but after reading the reviews i will sure keep and replace if ever needed our gas tank water heater for our house, by far the best setup

  • Dwight Wojtonek Posted January 19, 2009 3:05 pm

    I am a plumbing contractor and my hardest job is educating customers on water heaters vs tankless heaters and what you wrote is very true there is one more water heater that A.O.Smith has out and it is a VERTEX 100 this water heater is 96% thermal efficent and the cost of the unit is the same approx. as a tankless it gives you 4.31 gpm continious flow based on 65 degree inlet water temp and 110 outlet temp. i am in northern ohio so this means to me that the 50 to 55 should give me a 3 gpm flow and still get 110 degree water temp. just wanted to let you and other people out there to ask about these water heaters i have seen to many tankless water heater heat exchangers cracked due to the spark ignition and they are never the same after that….

  • David Posted January 26, 2009 1:34 pm

    A good article,I learned something new. I have a question/problem I’m hoping someone can help me with. We installed a gas model tankless heater and it works fine except that the H2O temp fluctuates from very hot to very cold. Adjusting the temp with the handles only works for a short time. We have a rancher and it is vented through the roof. After installing the tankless I closed the water intake on the regular tank. I had a plumber come out and wants to cut a hole in the wall on the backside of the shower wall and install a pressure balance block. The fixtures are already pressure balanced and I have my doubts about adding a block. Is it possible that the house water pressure is too low? The plumber also wants to add a shut of valve on the regular tank. The reasoning being that there is water coming from the regular tank effecting the tankless. I am hesitant to do this because once we get the tankless straight we’ll be removing the tank. I’d be mighty grateful for a solution or any light that would solve this problem. Thanks for help you can give me.

  • Kristen Posted January 27, 2009 8:59 pm

    Thank you for the info. It was really helpful and un-biased. We’re going with a tank too.

  • Victoria Posted February 3, 2009 12:32 am

    I too am making this decision and your article really helped. I live in AZ and the gas cost here is very low. I get a lot of company during certain times of the year and two or three water functions go on at the same time. I also already have low flow and all. Thank You!

  • Jim Posted February 16, 2009 4:43 pm

    I’ve always been suspicious of the tankless heaters because of that huge B.T.U. rating. You have that dangerous hot exhaust pipe going through your attic when you could have a super high efficiency tank-type that uses a piece of PVC pipe for exaust. I would think that anyone who regularly uses hot water,and therefore lessens the "standy" factor would be better off with a high efficiency tank.

  • Mary Posted March 6, 2009 7:52 am

    HI Tim,
    Just wanted to say thanks for all this information! You addressed everything I wanted to know. And btw, the diode rod on hanging on the water tank with note to self to install is impressive! Hard to find good men like you these days!

  • Anonymous Posted April 2, 2009 10:08 am

    Thank you for sharing this great easy-to-understand comparison and for you honest "truth-in-advertising" approach about your research.
    I just wanted to comment that there is an even greener (and usually more cost effective- even in northern climate) choice for hot water: solar with electric or gas back up. You can use your existing tank and retrofit.
    It would be great to see someone as technically competent as you research a comparison or traditional tank vs. solar+tank systems!

  • W. Posted May 20, 2009 11:26 am

    This is a great balanced article that makes a well reasoned case for tank heaters. I wish I had read this 3 years ago when I made the unfortunate decision to install a Bosch tankless which has been nothing but headaches from day one.

  • g Posted June 25, 2009 6:12 pm

    anode, not diode, I believe. Otherwise very nice article.

  • Brian Posted July 3, 2009 11:06 pm

    Excellent piece on water heaters. I have quite a bit of knowledge about plumbing and homebuilding and was considering installing a tankless in a rental property. Your excellent article made me clearly understand why that would have not been the best path.

  • Jeri Posted July 6, 2009 1:01 pm

    Hi Tim, Thanks for the info, just discovered a wet floor by the waterheater, time for a new one. Sounds like tankless still has too many cons compared to tank. Guess I’ll stick with a tank and just buy a better quality for efficiency and practice better maintenance. Thanks again

  • Cathy Lambert Posted July 23, 2009 12:59 pm

    I read and appreciated the time you took to share what you learned in your research. My choice to buy a water heater is based on the need to fill a bath tub. Right now I have to rely on heating water on the stove. I know what patience is in that regard. I’m thinking in the direction of a tank water heater. Which brand did you go with and why?

  • Dave Posted August 21, 2009 10:33 am

    Hi, thanks for the info from your hard research work. We are located in Canada where the colder weather is an issue and our water being on a well is quite hard as well. You brought up issues that were never thought of, and the blog people in the know who agreed with your findings helped as well. Blessings Dave

  • Barb Posted September 4, 2009 12:51 pm

    Thanks for the info. This really helped explain to us the difference in the the tankless and tank water heaters. Looks like we’ll be sticking with the tank.
    Thank you.

  • Stephen J Eisenberg Posted September 18, 2009 9:13 am

    Hi Tim
    Another thank you for writing this article.
    I have a number of apartments which I rent and supply the hot water heaters. The cost of replacement is high and very bad for the environment if tanks die early.. Your suggestion on the diodes to extend the life of these units is invaluable especially when you consider it is potentially multiplied by hundreds and hundreds of these necessary machines..

  • Daniil Posted October 3, 2009 11:26 pm

    Why is there no date of the article??? "Tank vs. Tankless Water Heaters".
    Technology changes fast.
    Thank you.

  • Lucy Posted November 3, 2009 12:26 am

    Thanks, this was very helpful to me in making my decision!

  • Colleen Posted November 4, 2009 3:30 pm

    Thanks for the great information. I live in a tiny condo in Colorado, and wanted a tankless to gain some space. I was looking for precisely this type of information so I can ask the correct questions when I get a few estimates. I also appreciate the tip on the diode replacement of my current tank. I had no idea about this.

  • john Posted November 11, 2009 12:30 am

    Today I was torturing myself over replacing my bad tank heater with a tankless. My plumbing distributor insisted that tankless was the way to go.
    My old 50 gal NG direct vent tank replacement is nearly as expensive as a tankless. But after investigation a gas line upgrade was needed for the input rating for the tankless. It’s max input is four times the tank heater ( very cold tap water needs big burner )
    Then there’s an electrical outlet installation needed for tankless.
    So, being a single guy and not a big user of hot water – it’s a waste of money with no payback.
    Great thread – thank you !

  • john Posted November 28, 2009 2:52 pm

    First, that you for all your comments. Second, My apologies for not responding to some in a more timely manner, but due to a settings issue, I did not see some of them.
    So to answer a few questions, Daniil, this post was put in in early 2008.
    Cathy: I’m out of town right now and I can’t remember the brand right off the top of my head. However, it was manufactured by Rheem, a very reputable water heater manufacturer. I ended up buying it at Menard’s so it has a Mendard’s brand name. I called the Rheem factory and spoke to an engineer that assured me that it Menard’s version is the same water heater they put the Rheem brand on.

  • Jamie Brown Posted December 23, 2009 8:27 pm

    Very informative article. Today I visited the Noritz Tankless Demontration Showroom in Orange County CA hoping to evaluate whether tankless is for me. My 40 year old home is very typical construction for our SoCal area. To change to tankless, I would have to replace the venting, add a water filter, run a larger volume gas line, add an electrical outlet and plan on decalcifying the unit every 6-12 months not unlike a coffee maker needs. This requires additional plumbing fittings and a sump-type pump to run a vinegar solution through it. In addition, there is the possiblity that my shower valves and/or shower heads may need to be replaced. This is because I have low-flow units (water shortage in California). All tankless units need at least a half gallon a minute water flow. A low flow shower could cause the unit to shut down in the middle of a shower and instantly run cold. Add to this many plumbers who despite their claims, do not have the knowledge of these units to properly install them. By the way, my 50 gallon Home Depot tank water heater has 19 years on it (family of four)and has never been drained, never had the rod changed and it still does not gurgle. I admit I am probably running on borrowed time. I think I will shop for the most efficient tank heater and be done with the agonizing over tankless.

  • DroolingElmo Posted January 6, 2010 1:25 pm

    I run a total of 7 electric tankless water heaters in my home and 6 other properties I own. The oldest is 9 years old and the newest is 6 months old. I have never had a problem with any of them. The installations were all so simple I could do them myself. But best of all I have seen a 40% drop in my electric usage with no other changes. The last one I installed was in a rental property that is a one bedroom cottage with two people living in it. The electric bill was always about $85 per month and now it hasn’t gone over $45 in the last six months. The model is an Eemax EX95T and it cost me $226, so I have already saved my money back in 6 months.******Save energy, save the earth, don’t fool with gas, too expensive and unreliable, go electric tankless!

  • George Cantonis Posted February 10, 2010 4:51 pm

    Our Noritz tankless is about 2 1/2 years old. I love the fact that it gives us endless hot water, that it is taking up less space and is installed outside, however we started to have problems with our shower heads clogging with sediment… we suspect the tankless, but there isn’t much literature on this problem. We are planning to flush the system. Any advice on how to proceed. We live in So. CA.

  • George Cantonis Posted February 11, 2010 5:26 am

    I would also suspect the water heater as well. In a tank heater, sediment can settle out. It’s likely minerals from the water which is why tankless units need to be flushed. I yours was installed properly is should have bypass valves that will allow you to attached a hose and run flushing fluid through it. Your owner’s manual should explain how and any plumbing supply store that sells tankless heaters should have the supplies you need. Let us know how it goes.

  • Perry Posted February 19, 2010 2:35 am

    I bought a house with a tankless system and it has been nothing but problems. Every 3 years you have to rebuild the valve system ($50) and the electronic control box has gone out twice in 3 years ($122 each time). When the water is on it is….hot, not an issue. But in the shower, if you like to soap up, stop the water flow to scrub, then turn on the water to rinse, that is bad! You will be blasted with COLD water while the heater fires up and all the cold water runs through the pipes, out the shower with hot water to follow. And you have to have the water flowing full stream all the time or there is not enough water to keep the thing going. Because the electronic box went out again, I am thinking of going back to a tank but am not sure if the installation will be an issue. Hope not!

  • Harvey Lewis Posted February 20, 2010 10:11 am

    I found the information very helpful.I am a plumber and trying to learn as much as possible about the pros and cons of selling a homeowner tank or tankless from a objective point of view and not because my company pushes tankless because of the higher cost. Your article shed a lot of light on the tank vs. tankless issue.
    Harvey L.

  • tsering Posted March 22, 2010 6:51 pm

    Well reasoned and very helpful.

  • Rhonda Posted April 21, 2010 12:07 pm

    My Power Vent tank water heater started leaking 3 days ago. The plumber said that I needed a new water heater. Which way to go? Even living without hot water, I didn’t want to rush my decision. I was leaning toward a tankless water heater until I tested the temp of the water coming into my house. My plumber told me that the tankless would not heat up the water enough for me. I like really hot water for the few dishes I hand wash and for my shower. The tankless was not going to give me that. Add this to your information and it’s a tank water heater for me.

  • Burton Farber Posted June 27, 2010 11:45 pm

    I was about to instal a tankless when the contractor called to bid said "I wouldn’t buy that make!"
    I decided to read more about the payoff and the "green factor. And after a lot of checking, I decided to replace with a tank unit.
    The comments about replacing the anode rod led me to notice that my application leaves only a couple of feet to the ceiling! So I assume that to replace the rod, I would have to remove the unit so as to allow enough room to replace the rod.
    So I’m back to square one!

  • John Posted September 3, 2010 7:17 pm

    Thanks for the time you took to share this with everyone.

  • Jon Cook Posted September 4, 2010 2:37 pm

    I have a rural cabin that currently has a solar flat plate that brings water to about 100degF that feeds to a propane tank water heater to make final warm water. Tenant, who pays propane bill, wants to replace this with a tankless. Incoming water from flat plate to tankless would be 100degF. Winter temps are cold, and tankless will be in insulated attic. Install with SS vent pipe, etc sounds expensive. Is this worth it?

  • Matt Posted September 25, 2010 4:27 pm

    I always appreciate what appears to be both a knowledgeable and balanced review (regardless of product or service). This helped me to decide to stick with a tank for my particular needs. Thank you.

  • Caroline Ray Posted October 29, 2010 11:22 pm

    Thank you for taking time to write up this article. It was very informative and useful :0) The best that I’ve found in my searches!

  • daveyo Posted October 31, 2010 11:13 am

    Great article, very helpful! Just found my tank leaking (6yrs old!) & im waiting for the plumber!! Thanks so much for your help insight

  • Alice Posted November 11, 2010 2:24 pm

    Thank you for posting your thoughts. The insurance appraiser needs an "it’s ok" letter on our ancient water heater & I wanted to examine if there is a more efficient type to consider when/if we need a new one. You gave me some insight to the venting which would be extensive in our case. THANKS

  • Tim T Posted November 13, 2010 10:53 pm

    Very Very helpful. I’m going with the good old (new) tank 🙂
    Thank you,

  • Laura Posted November 17, 2010 10:43 am

    Great article. I was gung ho for new effiecency. but reading your article gave me valuable insights. I did not know anode could be changed. Will look at that first. Also I live in cold climate and need hot water in an ice storm!!

  • mary Posted November 22, 2010 12:01 pm

    Thanks for an informative review of the possibilities. I wanted to go with the tankless since a leak in a tank would destroy my apartment. After reading your article, I think I will go with a tank until the tankless ones have been around longer

  • Jag Posted November 26, 2010 10:20 am

    I was thinking of buying tankless heater also, but your analysis made me change my mind.

  • Jim Ackermann Posted December 1, 2010 2:45 pm

    Thank you for writing this description of your water heater solution. I, too, am an analytical-type person & we are building a brand new cabin in the mountains (to replace the old one). The contractor wanted to know tank or tankless. We decided to go with a good-quality LP tank water heater, based in part on your article – particularly the installation/venting issue and especially the climate.

  • Marc Stewart Posted December 22, 2010 10:32 am

    I understand some of the points in this article but I strongly dissagree with most all of them.
    First off with the cost of the venting, most of your higher efficency tankless water heaters are now able to be vented with PVC and last time I checked the prices were under $50 for all the material. It is true that you have to reroute the vent line for the new tankless but i’ve installed well over 100 tankless units and the rerouting takes literally 20 minutes to do.
    For point #2…the efficency of the Tank VS. Tankless. Your standard tank unit is %60 efficent when you first buy it and within 5 years the efficency drops greatly. And in areas where you have hard water and minerals in your water the efficency drops at a faster rate. Where as most tankless units start at %83 and go up to %94. That right there is pretty cut and dry. The numbers in this case speak for themselves.
    Now for point #3 the whole ‘Climate’ issue. I live in upstate NY and our winters are some of the coldest around and i’ve yet to have a heat exchanger crack on me from cold air blowing in through the vent. Thats just ridiculous. The tankless water heater has a built in fan that cools the heat exchanger off for a minute to two after the buners turn off and that prevents the extreme temperature changes.
    I could keep going on and on about the benefits of the Tankless over the Tank style water heater. Overall i found this article to be very misleading and slightly off the wall. If you need help in trying to figure out which is right for you feel free to reply and i’ll try to write back.

  • Justin Borim Posted January 1, 2011 8:09 pm

    Thank you so much for this post; it was of great help!

  • grayg mitrou Posted January 3, 2011 9:09 pm

    thanks. i am an IT analyst and you gave me the type of info I was looking for. I wish I read this before my tank rotted out. Next time! And I will go with standard tank. thanks again.

  • Tom Posted January 9, 2011 11:17 am

    Very good to know that the vent system needs to be 100% replaced. That made the decision to stay with a tank heater, Thank you.

  • warren Posted January 16, 2011 10:00 am

    I’m still confused. My primary concerns are: Cost (tank vs tankless) And which is the better choice. Nobody wants to rate which tankless water heaters are the best on the market. We have two bathrooms in the home and will probably need 2 to 3 baths/showers when guest are present.

  • Michele Posted January 17, 2011 8:07 pm

    Thanks for giving this 79 year old widow all the information I needed to make an informed decision. I came home to a wet basement tonight – 8 yr. old tank, but I never knew the anode could be changed. I’m going for an energy efficient tank, and an extra anode.

  • Ricky Posted January 21, 2011 6:31 am

    My plumber also informed me I would have to run a 3/4" natural gas line to a tankless heater. im going back with a 50 gallon

  • DaveT Posted January 24, 2011 9:58 am

    Very nice article. TY. I needed to comment however. Mary when you say "until tankless has been around longer" Tankless has been the main stay source for water heaters in Europe and Asia for decades. The tankless system has been tried and tested and proved to provide good inexpensive (sorta) hot water. The problem in the USA is that we need more houses designed from the start to utilize tankless systems.

  • B. Outlier Posted February 2, 2011 7:41 am

    Thanks so much. Awakened to find happy ants sipping delightedly at the new puddle surrounded my tank heater. In lieu of breakfast, went online to research tank vs. non, and found your article to be the most helpful–and the first to mention the anode rod issue. Off to re-buy another tank-y behemoth, and to sadden my ant-y friends.

  • Lane in Charlotte, NC Posted February 3, 2011 12:08 pm

    Yes, I would like some help in making the choice between tank or tankless. i favor tankless, but lack confidence in making the right decision.

  • Alec Sinclair Posted February 11, 2011 6:32 am

    ?thank you so very much for outline this for me. I wanted to make the best choice possible and this came in so very useful. Thank you once again.

  • mike rios Posted February 13, 2011 11:27 pm

    what also becomes a problem with tankless much more than tank is sediment in the hot water line at your washer ( really builds up fast there do to the volume of water it uses ) shower and sinks. because the tankless boil up the water so fast , the minerals and calcium bind and then go outward in the flow, since there is no tank for the sediment to settle it goes towards you washer, shower and sinks on the hot side. you can pre filter the incoming cold water, and it does help somewhat, but unless the water is softened, it will not help with minerals in the water that come out when the water is heated up in the heat exchanger. you can put in a hot water side filter and or a small holding tank to trap the calcium and other sediments. the other aspect is the tendency for longer lead times to get the hot water from the tank to the furthest device in the house and the minumum gpm required to get the tankless to fire up.

  • Nina Posted February 17, 2011 10:52 pm

    Thank you for a very usefule information!

  • Diane M Posted February 27, 2011 10:06 am

    Great article. We are building a home in Maine, and the plumber has quoted the same price (within $50) for a tankless, or for a 50 Gallon high efficiency LP gas power vented tank. I was always told that the tankless was much more expensive, so I am a bit confused now as to which to choose. We will only live in the home from May to the end of Octover for the next 5-6 years, then move there full time. We have a large bathtub (45 gallon), so we need to be able to fill that. I have been told the tub will take 10-15 minutes to fill with the tankless, which could result in the water getting cooler before you even get in. The unit would be installed in the basement, and we will be installing a wood stove in the basement when we live there in the winter.

  • Anonymous Posted March 17, 2011 5:52 pm

    Great write-up; certainly validates my decision. Thank you for such a thorough analysis.

  • Pat Posted April 24, 2011 11:05 pm

    I really appreciated Timothy’s original article and other comments. My 5 year old 40 gal developed a serious leak over this Easter weekend. I considered a tankless, since I enjoyed them in Europe for several years. I could maintain a tank but the concerns about sediment to the showers, and especially the dishwasher and washer is a real turn off. I will return to the 40 gallon traditional.

  • Brian Posted May 8, 2011 6:40 am

    Thanks for the insight on the issue of tank vs tankless water heaters. I’m building a place in Northern MI this summer and was contemplating which way to go. If nothing else I have a starting place and an idea on questions to ask.

  • Dale Posted May 8, 2011 8:24 am

    You describe the anode as being coated in a material that dissolves over time to protect the tank. That make is sound like some sort of rust inhibiting chemical that protects the tank and thus you wouldn’t want to drink that chemical. The simply isn’t the case. An anode is generally make of a different metallic material. The corrosion protection is actually an electrical process. Corrosion is the flow of electrons away from a metal. The anode reverses that process causing a flow towards the steel water tank. The anode is actually consumed (corrodes instead of the tank) in the process and for this reason it is also referred to as a "sacrificial anode". Replacing the spent anode will certainly increase tank life as it will renew the ability of the anode to provide this electrical protection. With that said, it still may not be a good idea to cook with hot water as it will contain the spent, corroded material released by the anode.

  • Ken Posted May 17, 2011 7:50 pm

    This was great reading. I’ve tried to find good write ups on tankless vs tank hot water heaters. I have a 50 gal tank which is 16 years old. Sediment at bottom is insulating water from "flame" so need to replace the tank. Was thinking tankless but after reading your write up, think I’ll stick to a H.E. tank. Didn’t know about the anode either, suprised mine is still going. Two thumbs up… I’m an avid consumer reports reader, but their forum totally misses the point, you nailed it.

  • LuLu Posted June 6, 2011 8:35 pm

    Hi There,
    I agree, great information and great article. You sound a lot like my husband in the fact that he likes to do his homework before he makes a purchase. He has re-plumbed the entire house in order to put in a new German Washing Machine and Dryer but our water heater won’t stay lit and after changing the Thermo coupler twice..he had decided it is best to get something new…but which one he was not so sure…This is where the tank or tank-less came in. I am going to send him your article…Unless you have an idea of why the W.heater won’t stay lit and we can save the big bucks?

  • BOB Posted June 9, 2011 1:30 pm

    I was thinking about going to a tankless model based on gas savings alone. But learning about expensive venting, 3/4inch gas line, freezing posibility in short venting situations, and cost recover time, I think I’ll go with a more efficient unit next time. I know about the anode, but never get around to it. Great article, thanks.

  • Mike Posted June 13, 2011 2:48 am

    Thanks Timothy, that is good info I can use.

  • Hot Water Heaters Posted June 15, 2011 5:34 am

    The idea for a tank-less heater is to keep from storing hot water, cuts down on the energy costs
    as for running zone heaters off of it will defeat the purpose of it, it would run most of the time.

  • Frances Posted July 3, 2011 7:27 pm

    The advice was great. Thank you so much.

  • doreet Posted August 14, 2011 11:48 pm

    thank you, your artical was very usefully. My husband and I are talking about a new water heater before our 11 year old tank water hear breaks (it is fine right now, but I want to be ready when it busts). right now, we are leaning towared another tank water heater based on your and other articals.

  • Anonymous Posted August 15, 2011 3:10 pm

    This is a really great one and it aligns with my thought.

  • Jeff Posted September 4, 2011 11:14 am

    Thanks for sharing your research, and for the useful informantion! Saved me lots of time.

  • ibc Posted September 7, 2011 11:07 pm

    The tankless water heating system can easily last 20 years or more with normal maintenance. That’s twice as long as the standard tank heater. Add to that the lifestyle benefits of being able to enjoy endless hot water when you want it and for as long as you need it, while saving money on energy costs, and water. The tankless water heating system, although more expensive initially, is definitely within the financial reach of most of us and the returns are quite significant.

  • Tom Posted September 8, 2011 3:27 pm

    Thanks much for an excellent analysis. I am sticking with another 50 gallon tank.

  • henry Posted September 12, 2011 11:55 am

    Good article. We live in Raleigh, NC where it does get cold, but not like Michigan. We currently have a 50 gl tank that 11 years old in the attic. We’re thinking about a tankless, but are concerned about the noise (db readings) for the pets, neighbors and us. In 7 seven I have not maintained the tank. Perhaps I’ll have someone look at it before replacing. It seems to work good still. I’m going to look at my neighbor’s and see how it works. Thanks again.

  • Vadim Posted September 16, 2011 12:41 am

    Thanks for a great article and candid advice. Came home to a small puddle in garage from water heater that’s 12 yrs old. Need to replace the water heater (gas tank) and was considering the tankless water heater. The cost on the tank will be about 1027 compared with about 2400 for tankless.

  • Candy Posted September 18, 2011 2:48 am

    I would really appreciate your help in making the decision for our family. We have a family of 6. We usually have someone showering while the laundry is going. But our power bill is outrageous so we are trying to find cheaper means. I would really appreciate your help on some questions I have. Thanks

  • David Schaal Posted September 27, 2011 10:15 pm

    This was a very helpful discussion. Even the comments were useful. Thanks. I was committed to tankless for my next water heater, and now am not so sure. One of my pet peeves about a tank system is that it always seems to be at low water heat when I get up in the morning. Are there any units that have some type of programmable "start time" feature?

  • anthony & sandy comi Posted October 12, 2011 1:41 pm

    I was sitting on the razor’s edge having spoken to many people regarding which one to purchase and install. I didn’t know who to believe.
    Your comments and info was great and now I’m sure which way we’ll go

  • Debbie Posted October 27, 2011 1:53 pm

    Thank you for your article! I am a recent transplant to Wyoming from NYC and haven’t a clue about water heaters – tanked or tankless. I just know it is time to get a new one. While we will probably buy another monster cylinder for our 130 year old house – it is good to have these tips. Thanks!

  • OldHouse Posted October 31, 2011 8:13 am

    Article and comments more useful than Consumer Reports. All things considered, I changed my mind and will save money. Thanks!

  • AJR Posted November 10, 2011 7:36 am

    great info. not many sites want to give the cons of the tankless system. I very much appreciated the research you did & your willingness to share.

  • Hilliards Hot Water Solutions Posted November 24, 2011 10:12 am

    Tankless water heaters are a great investment and will save you money every day that you use it. Don’t forget though if you were use to taking a 15 minute shower and now you are taking a 30 minute shower you do have more hot water but have used 2x as much. People do tend to do this since they now have an unlimited flow of hot water. If this is you, you will not see the savings.
    Food for thought
    Hilliards Hot Water Solutions

  • EC Posted December 28, 2011 7:15 pm

    Great review – was leaning towards a tank but contractor keeps pushing for a tankless – we’re in California though, but our water is hard and reading about the sediment issues has convinced me to go with tank. Now the questions is whether high efficiency is really that worth it. Thanks again

  • Oconee Posted January 7, 2012 4:17 pm

    Thank you. You made a difficult topic to understand very accessible and helped me make my decision.

  • Danielle Posted January 24, 2012 2:33 am

    …and I’m thoroughly frustrated with the amount of time it takes for the water to heat up.
    I thought that the tankless would be great. I lucked out b/c when I bought my house it had tankless. Sweet.
    Fail. I have to run the water for nearly 5min while it heats up (sinks & shower). I’ve thought about catching the wasted water, but I don’t think there’s enough buckets to handle it.
    Anyway…if I can work out a "mini-reserve tank" then I think I’ll be super psyched…but right now, it’s a bummer.

  • hawkins Posted January 25, 2012 9:21 am

    above average comcerns because I am in the process of replacing my heater today. I am now planning on replacing my heater with another tanked replacement, my plan is have a deeper pan,to also replace the anode more frequently.

  • Sarah Cobb Posted January 27, 2012 2:47 pm

    Thank you for that informative article! It helped me make a decision. Also, I didn’t know about replacing the anode, so that was very helpful, too.

  • Mike Bassett Posted February 9, 2012 8:30 pm

    I just paid $1000 for parts and installation for a 40 gallon tank, thinking that for that much money, I could have bought a Tankless. But after reading your article, I feel much better and confident that we made the right choice with our BradfordWhite 40 Gallon tank with a 6 year warranty.

  • John Posted February 11, 2012 8:21 pm

    It was nice to see your comments on what type of water heater to go with, and it save me a lot of for thought on which way to go . Thanks

  • San Jose Plumbing Posted February 17, 2012 6:43 am

    I like your post and it really gives an outstanding idea that is very helpful for all the people on the web. Thanks for sharing

  • Plumbing Union City Posted February 23, 2012 5:02 am

    Hi there! Very useful post! I am very glad that I was able to stumble upon your blog while searching Google.this is great post!

  • Deborah Posted February 24, 2012 6:53 am

    I live in Florida, so the climate is not an issue. Thank you for the through discussion of the issues with each. I will have some information to discuss with the plumber.

  • tankless water heater Posted February 27, 2012 7:38 am

    I’m a little late reading this blog about Tankless Water Heater, especially some of the posts, but gotta say… everything here is so great and so true. As someone who’s originally from the area, I get a chuckle out of many things here.

  • Chris Posted February 28, 2012 5:16 pm

    I purchased a tankless ELECTRIC water heater. While I loved it when it works, it is a maintenance nightmare. The designers chose to use ultra high density heating elements, to keep it small. VERY BAD idea if you have ANY minerals in your water.
    I have to dissasemble mine about every 90 days and usually replace at least 1 of the 3 elements, because they are so encased in calcium & lime that they are impossible to remove.
    Because the flow is so restricted the build up has no way to escape, and eventually destroys the elements. I even sent mine back to the manufacturer who rebuilt it, and it lasted roughly another 90 days.
    I have no doubt that I could build a better one myself, if I had time. But any tankless ELECTRIC water heater that is built to last will require a physical size much larger than the shoebox sized ones some people sell.
    Look for one that uses many LOW Density elements, if you want it to last. Or maybe a design where the elements are not in the water, but around the pipe.
    The faster the water is heated, the more the sediments are seperated.
    Hope you have better luck than I did.

  • MullinsLottie31 Posted March 12, 2012 4:47 pm

    If you’re in a not good position and have got no cash to go out from that point, you would require to take the home loans. Just because that should help you emphatically. I take bank loan every single year and feel myself good because of this.

  • Alana Posted March 19, 2012 4:01 pm

    While I still haven’t decided which route to go, I appreciate your thorough analysis. I am much better equipped to ask appropriate questions to be able to make an intelligent decision.
    My tank heater is 20+ years, so I’m thankful for every day I have hot water!

  • sondra weaver Posted March 20, 2012 7:10 pm

    Will a descaler manage the scale (calcium & Magnesium) in an electric water heater. i need to replace my old water heater which is full of sediment as is the line to my washing machine and hard scale on all my water faucets. I read the tankless need soft water. I have well water and it is very hard do not want a salt softner looking for alternatives before a new water heater. Your article was very helpful. Thank you

  • Janine Posted March 23, 2012 10:34 am

    Thank you so much for the helpful info. I visited my sister in Spain and got to see/use water from the tankless unit in her apartment. With 8 of us showering after one another we did not have hot water all the way.
    I notice you posted the article since 07 or 09, do you still feel the same even with the new improved tankless now in 2012? How about the initial cost of installation? Is that still a big factor? We live in the south and about to build a lake house. Any info you give would be helpful in deciding which unit to go with.

  • Laflèche David Posted March 27, 2012 7:04 am

    very very good article u have that every step to be sure u make the righr choice

  • Luzenira Posted April 10, 2012 4:44 am

    They work with all houses, but there is a lot you need to know. Be enward most plumbers will do their best to convince you to return a tankless and install a tank based system. Very few of them have installed them into houses and don’t like the change. Hard water issues:If you don’t have natural soft water then you need a water softener. Or you don’t get a tankless water heater. The minerals in water will leave buildup inside your water heater. If you get too much buildup, it will damage the heater. Not to mention the water heater won’t produce much hot water with a modest amount of buildup. Second the harder the water the more often you should flush the water heater with vinegar or similar solution. This removes the buildup and only takes about 30 minutes of your time if it is setup to do so. If your water is really hard you should flush it every two weeks, but for most areas with hard water can do every 1 or 2 months. It is inexpensive to do so. Even if you have natural soft water y

  • Carol Deese Posted April 20, 2012 8:56 am

    Chapel Hill, NC. Thank you for your comments. Very helpful

  • Merrill Farm Inn Posted April 23, 2012 11:33 am

    Very Good Article, supports a lot of what we have researched for our two hotels in New Hampshire. Article well written with strong logic and clear thoughts. Thanks

  • Sam Posted April 25, 2012 4:50 pm

    We recently purchased a 1000Ft2 cabin in the Arkansas Mountains. It will be use for weekends and vacations. There are few closets and I would like to get rid of my electric Tank heater and install a tankless system (for conserving space as much as anything else) and use the closet space for storage. As far as energy savings go (which is not my reason for thinking about this)We can turn off the current tank when we leave each visit. Can the tankless system be placed outside (covered and protected of course)? Any thoughts?

  • JayJay Posted May 22, 2012 9:32 pm

    Which tank brands were you looking at & which did you go with?

  • Paul Posted May 23, 2012 5:46 pm

    Very informative and awesome review. Funny no where else was the extra maintenance mentioned on the tankless. I have a family of 5 and my NG 40 gal Tank always supplied sufficient hot water so that was not the issue. The issue for me is water conservation since my water bill dwarfs my NG bill by $100/mo. From what I am reading the amount of water used will probably be the same since it would still have a distance to travel. Another con is the additional heat, I live in Miami and I dont need more heat! I think that I will stick with an Ultra-Efficient NG tank system and save on the install coats.

  • Charlie Posted May 25, 2012 3:08 am

    Just the info I was looking for.
    Not all the salesmen will tell you ALL the facts. Very helpfull!!!

  • Carlos Posted June 11, 2012 12:31 pm

    Tankless water heaters are a great choice, butyou need to make sure you size your unit correctly and read the fine print on some of the specs. Example is that of Gas tankless that claim flow rates of 7 – 8 gallons per minute. These claims are based on a temperature rise of 35 degrees over incoming water temperatures. So if you live in a Northern State were inlet water temperaturesaverage 55 degrees these claims can be a dissapointment since you will not be able to run multiple applications. If you live in Northern State and are thinking of going with a Gas Tankless make sure you select a unit rated at no less than 180,000 BTU, the lower priced ones are normally rated at 140,000 BTU or lower. You need to also consider that Energy Star rated units have an Energy Efficiency of about 82% so you need to take into account that you havea 18% average heat loss which reduces your overall temperature rise. You need to also make sure you are getting a unit that is UL/CSA (Safety) listed, since many of the lower price units have no US SAFETY standard Certifications.

  • Jan Posted June 18, 2012 8:23 pm

    I purchased a home that had replaced a tank system with tankless, which sounded good but has turned out to be a nightmare. You had to run the water forever to take a shower. Right after the shower, the water ran hot in the kitchen sink, but later in the day it didn’t. The dishwasher didn’t clean the dishes (water wasn’t hot enough until I learned to use only the heated wash option). I’ve considered various "patches" to make hot water more available. But it looks like the best solution is to take the tankless system out and put back the tank system it replaced. I’m in New Mexico. Anyone want a tankless unit?

  • Charles Schall Posted June 19, 2012 8:36 pm

    Just the info I was looking for. Many thanks!

  • Peter Posted June 20, 2012 12:23 pm

    Excellent article; very informative… Will definitelly help in making my decision. Thanks.

  • Sue Sandlin-Plaehn Posted July 17, 2012 6:30 pm

    Thanks! Very helpful!

  • Lani Posted July 21, 2012 9:11 am

    This is great information.. I was ready to go tankless, but have high mineral content in my water, live in a cold climate and have to vent up 3 stories! I think I will stick to the gas type. Another factor not mentioned is that I think you have to wire an outlet for 220v. Another expense! Thanks for the advice!

  • Tom Posted July 22, 2012 8:53 pm

    Tankless heaters are great if you need very low flow rates, best way to ensure you have sufficient hot water, calculate what is your fixture count, then look at the submittals of the heater you are considering. If you are working on a commercial or industrial project, you will find that you will require multiple, upon multiple tankless heaters. Insulating your storage tank properly and upgrading the heater to a high efficiency model condensing heater may be a more sensible option to consider. Most condensing heaters operate at up to 98%, combined with a storage tank, which acts a reservoir to deal with the initial onslaught/high demand you may find in a Hotel(where most customers shower from 6am to 8am). The potential costs of stand by heat loss are minnimized by proper insulation and one could say even off set by the peace of mind that your customers have hot water when they need it. If you are looking for a replacement storage tank visit our website at we cary a large inventory ready to ship and always have some models on select pricing.

  • David Posted August 16, 2012 8:40 pm

    Precisely what we’re faced with when trying to explain "the actual difference between – and the true cost(s) of" to many of our cliants that in some cases aren’t eager to accept after having been directed by the local "lo-depot" Guy, or omitted details from some website boasting lowest cost…when in fact a tankless is NOT suited for EVERY application ! *** Refreshing reminder we’re not in this alone*** thanks – Dave @ BrianYatesPlmbg.

  • Scott Perry Posted August 21, 2012 9:42 am

    Another thing to consider is water use. A survey by the Water efficiency labeling scheme in Australia concluded that tankless water heaters ( or continuous flow water heaters as we call them) use between 1.5 and 3.5 liters for the water to get to temperature at the outlet of the water heater. This is not the deadleg in the piping system but measured at the outlet of the water heater. It is estimated that here a family uses the hot tap from a cold start about 20 times per day. Doing the math. Call it 2.5 liters ( middle of the road) x20 times per day (50 liters per day) x 7 days per week (350 liters per week) x 50 weeks allowing 2 week vacation ( 17 500 liters per house hold per year).

  • wassermeister Posted August 28, 2012 12:02 am

    It is too bad that there is not a Marathon water heater on the market with gas options. Marathon water heaters only come in electric set up. If there was a gas version you could get rid of having to the anode rod altogether. The tank is made out of polybutane and will not rust or corrode. Here is more information:

    Personally, I think that the tank gas heaters are a better choice in retrofit applications. A nice gas condensing unit will do.

    The tankless units are not as carefree as they are made out to be. Retrofitting a house with a tankless (unless new construction) is pretty expensive, since you need to upgrade the gas lines, etc.

    In any case nice blog above.

  • Olympia, Washington Posted September 7, 2012 9:29 pm

    Thanks for the education on the two types of heaters. Like you said, it all depends on the climate you stay in. I was going to switch to a tankless but i guess after several research, I’m going to stick with my tank and make sure the anode rods are changed base on manufactures recommendations. Good looking out.

  • Osw Posted September 12, 2012 10:55 am

    I would have somebody check the exsinitg tank first. Unless it is very small or you are a whole lot of water in that 15 minutes it should give you more hot water than that. In fear of scalding they do tend to set them very low these days. It may only need to be turned up. A hotter tank lasts longer because you use less. But you can’t turn it up too high if you have young children or elderly that scald easily. If it is a large tank you lower element that does most of the heating normally could be out and you are only getting a half of tank of hot water from the upper element. Or bad thermostat can do it also. First check the temp at the faucet. But a service call would be much cheaper. A tankless electric I recently saw requires three 40 amp circuits. Your exsinitg probably has only one 30 amp to it so you would need extensive wiring work as well as plumbing. It would be an expensive proposition unless your tank is very close to the panel and you have enough spare capacity on the panel.

  • Patrick Posted September 12, 2012 5:58 pm

    Interested in obtaining a price quote from 3 diferefnt installer service along with detail description knowledge. Fact, not fiction.The area is Chautauqua county. I am in Lily Dale, N.Y. between Jamestown and Fredonia.Interest is GAS Tankless hot water heaters.EOM

  • Elamir Posted September 13, 2012 7:09 am

    You should just get a water softener. They’re not very expensive and over time all your appliances will last longer and you’ll you less soap saving you money.
    I believe people say that the water heater should be replaced every 8 to 10 years anyways as they tend to leak over time often times it just makes sense to replace over fix since its close to the time to replace anyways and water heaters are relatively inexpensive anyways.
    Consider solar – free hot water in the hot texas sun. The new system even work in the winter. I believe the solar water system should pay for it self in just a few years.

  • Vivian Posted September 20, 2012 4:55 pm

    Thank you for your helpful, clear and terse comparison. I have more research to do, but now I at least know where to begin.

  • Gregory Harrington Posted September 22, 2012 11:21 am

    Thanks for posting this. It has been highly valuable to me. I think the post of the tankless needing repair every 90 days is highly valuable. I’ve had my water heater (tank version), and it’s given me 14 solid years. 1 bid is $1000 for tank water heater vs $3000 for tankless… another bid is $2000 for tank water heater and $5000 for tankless water heater. Over the 14 years, I’ve done 0 maintenance. So, maybe next time, I can do some preventative maintenance and get even more years. I like the idea of getting the spare part up front in case parts aren’t available 5 years after initial installation. Very great research and perspective… I’m gonna get the tank water heater.

  • Jasmine Posted September 26, 2012 2:48 pm

    I am also from Northern MI debating on tank vs tankless. When I read you were also from the are it made me very happy knowing I was making an informed choice. Great article. Thank you

  • Zandra & Lori Amato Posted October 14, 2012 11:12 am

    THANK YOU for your input. We like what you had to say and will take your research into consideration.

  • Posted October 18, 2012 5:37 am

    Thanks a lot for this contribution! It’s been very useful for me. Everything is very open and represents very clear explanation of issues. Really blogging is spreading its wings quickly. Your write up is a good example of it. Your website is very useful. Thanks for sharing.

  • Eddy Posted November 10, 2012 10:14 am

    We really appreciate your explanation of pros and cons of tank vs tankless heaters, as well as walking us through your decision making process. We are victims of Hurricane Sandy and have found ourselves in need of a new water heater. No complaints regarding our losses as our community and city has suffered losses we cannot compare. But people like you who take the time to offer useful cost saving advice that is quite educational are too few and far between. Many returns to you for paying it forward! You have helped us immensely.

  • Chris Posted December 2, 2012 9:14 pm

    At the margin, I think the tank heater is the way to go. The plumber has no incentive to properly assess my needs so why make it harder than necessary.

  • Dg Posted December 3, 2012 12:28 pm

    …Thanks for the detailed and logical discussion. Very informative.

  • Allan Mullaly Posted December 8, 2012 1:54 am

    I like the comparison of Tank vs. Tankless Water Heaters. I am with tankless water heater. It get very low space and so good and efficient especially Navien water heater. I have got it from cleanariheat[dot]ca

  • Erin Lowrey Posted December 8, 2012 3:09 pm

    Very helpful!

  • Johnson Cool Posted December 20, 2012 5:35 am

    I am all for tankless heaters, as well. I have to admit tankless are a bit pricy, but they get the job done.

  • Allan Mullaly Posted December 22, 2012 5:27 am

    I am impressed by your post. I like Navien water heater in Toronto.

  • Bryan in NM Posted December 31, 2012 8:07 pm

    What a great analysis. I need a new heater and I’ll stick with a tank and will hang the spare anode next to it.

  • Adrienne Posted January 8, 2013 11:53 am

    Thanks so much for sharing this very well written and thorough article.

  • k Myers Posted January 13, 2013 11:03 am

    I really appreciated this article and it has helped me feel better about the financial decision to NOT go with a tankless system. I was feeling guilty for not going with a much more expensive system and it looked like I could upgrade my tank system and still be a more efficient house hold….thank you

  • Chris Wright Posted January 26, 2013 1:32 pm

    First, thanks a lot for sharing your research. Because tankless appear to be more susceptible to scale, and waiting for the hot water to make it to the faucet with my just frozen tankless has been inconvenient (as well as wasteful), I am looking at a power vented tank heater. One reservation is that given that they cost as much as tankless, when the tank does go bad, I have to reinvest a lot of cash. Your thoughts, anyone? Thanks Chris

  • Allan Mullaly Posted February 9, 2013 2:14 am

    I like this article on tankless water heater. It is indeed a good appliance for home heating system. I got it from Clean Air Heat.

  • Bob Posted February 17, 2013 1:08 pm

    I really like your post and it really gives an outstanding idea that is very helpful for all the people on the web. Thank you very much for sharing this article.

  • Annette Posted February 20, 2013 10:55 pm

    Thanks for sharing. I own a townhouse style condo in New England. I have a 15+ yr gas water heater located on the third floor in a closet next to the furnace. Do you recomend a waterless tank for this type of application???

  • Gail Posted February 22, 2013 3:46 pm

    Thanks, this article was very helpful just starting to do our research.

  • Jeremy G. Posted February 27, 2013 2:54 pm

    Great read! Tons of interesting information to consider!

  • Alvin Posted March 22, 2013 12:41 pm

    This maybe a little late but worth sharing. I bought an electric tankless heater two years ago and I’m loving it. Although I spent a lot for it, I noticed a small decrease in my electric bill. It makes tankless heaters is more economical in the long run. So, it is better than the tank heater as it provides hot water only on demand. There might be a lot of tankless water heaters in the market today but one from works best for me.

  • Thiago daLuz Posted April 1, 2013 12:30 am

    Quite helpful

    This is handy info, indeed.

  • Alpha Electric Australia Posted April 11, 2013 12:31 am

    What are most people likely to buy is it tank or tankless water heater or how would you recommend which of the two is should they buy.

  • James Rossol Posted April 15, 2013 12:32 am

    Very Helpful Article

    Thank you for the info this was very helpful. I was contemplating between the tank and the tankless and after a lot of research and your article I went with the tank. Thanks

  • El Posted April 17, 2013 12:33 am

    Great post. I am a plumber and u did a great job explaining to the ppl of the difference. personally I’ve had takagi tankless heater for about 3 years, (gas), never serviced it, no repairs at all, and i never run out of hot water ,ever!, and i saved money on my bill, 35%,, only issue i hhave is that u cant just let the water trickle from faucet, there is a flow switch and it has to sense water movement in order to trigger the hot water, besides that, i love it as a home owner and a installer.

  • Anu Posted October 8, 2015 6:57 am

    Diego February 5, 2010 at 2:03 PM Jason,thanks for the reply. The furnace only comes to $3000. The Central would be an aditidonal $2300 to bump it over $5000. It seems like I would only get 30% of the the $2300. Am I over analyzing this?

  • Tankless Water Heater Filter Posted October 22, 2017 2:16 am

    Hi , this post was very helpful.

  • Bailey From HOT WATER CYLINDERS WELLINGTON Posted January 30, 2018 4:51 pm

    Hi Tim,
    This is very useful & information post. it really gives great idea that is very helpful for us. Thanks for sharing it.

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